Lonely Planet: Opportunity of a Lifetime

If you've ever wanted to be a travel writer you must enter this contest. By recommending your travel experiences on the Lonely Planet bluelist you can travel around the world with experienced Lonely Planet writers, giving yourself the opportunity to be commissioned as an official Lonely Planet writer.

Sounds good to me.

Singapore: What Are You Doing New Year's, New Year's Eve?

On New Year's Eve I had a 22 hour layover in Singapore. Even though the Singapore airport is a really great place, I decided to get a hotel room, eat some local foods and go out on the town. A friend of mine suggested the Hotel Phoenix, which is a good, fairly inexpensive hotel located in the center of the shopping haven that is Orchard Road. When I arrived, they were out of regular rooms, so they gladly upgraded me to a suite with a massage chair, cozy living area and a great view of the city. The concierge helped me find a good Chinese restaurant, a nice bar in Clarke Quay and some Kaya toast for breakfast the next morning.

















Clarke Quay is an interesting area on the river that is host to numerous bars and has fireworks for New Year's. There is basically every type of crowd you can imagine, so you're sure to find someplace you will enjoy spending your time. I ended up at a Blues Bar, the Crazy Elephant, which had live music, pool, ex-pats and plenty of Tiger Beer. Mean Jean & The Blues Machine was playing. Mean Jean is basically a refined version of the late Janis Joplin. Her voice is practically identical and only lacks the characteristic cracks that made Janis so unique. At the Crazy Elephant, I also had the opportunity to see stylish Singapore kids, get badly beat at pool and meet a few nice people that offered to show me the local perspective of the city the next day.

Singapore Must Do: Eat Kaya toast and drink Singapore coffee for breakfast, it's fantastically yummy!

On New Year's Day I spent most of my time shopping on Orchard Road. The majority of the shops are the same as what you can find in any large US city. But, there are some unique finds in the midst of it all, so don't worry. Here are some of the shops I liked best. Just keep in mind, nothing is really all that cheap in Singapore.

Takashimaya Shopping Center
This shopping center houses many upscale designer shops that you would find on 5th Avenue and Rodeo Drive. However, there are some stores that you won't find in the US as well and those are the best places to look for in this area.

Bin House, Indonesian Creation
This small boutique store has beautiful (and easy to wear) Asian inspired tops, skirts, pants and accessories. The store manager is extremely friendly and may offer you a snack. I found a lovely skirt designed like fisherman pants at the waist. You will be sick of seeing me wear it in the near future.

Une Nana Cool
I just found out this store is owned by Wacaol (figures!), but it still has some very tasteful, uniquely designed undergarments, pajamas and camisoles that you won't find at home.

MJphosis
The clothing wasn't very special at this store, but there are quite a few unique accessories, including necklaces, belts, headbands and shoes that are worth taking a look at.

Kinokuniya Book Store
This book store is quite large and has a great variety of English, Chinese and Japanese-language books. They had some really beautiful design books (my favorite was one on interior lighting) that are perfect for the coffee table. I was, however, a little disappointed in their selection of stationery.

Tax-free Shopping
Every time you spend more than 100 Singapore dollars ask for a tax form that you can turn in with your receipt at the airport for a reimbursement of the taxes you were just charged on your purchase. Without this form you will be out of luck.










Singapore Sling: New Year's Eve Mix
1. Paper Bag, Fiona Apple
2. Gold Lion, Yeah Yeah Yeahs
3. Fake Tales of San Francisco, Arctic Monkeys
4. Napoleon Says, Phoenix
5. This Charming Man, The Stars
6. Be Good, Tokyo Police Club
7. I Bet You Look Good on the Dancefloor, Arctic Monkeys
8. Just a Man With a Job, The Rakes
9. One Time Too Many, Phoenix
10. Battle Without Honor or Humanity, Tomoyasu Hotel

Photography by me.

I Say Bombay, You Say Mumbai

Bombay (now properly called Mumbai) is a city of great contrast. One minute you can be surrounded by poverty and the next minute you can be in a cozy restaurant enjoying great food and wine. About 60% of the population lives in the slums. Most other people live comfortably in large apartments, and they typically have drivers and servants (such as a cook). Meals are usually really cheap or fairly expensive. And most visitors of the city are said to either love or hate it.

I would say that I qualify as someone who was able to love the city. While there I was able to relax and enjoy what it has to offer, both inexpensive and pricey. I was also blessed to have both the tourist perspective (Lonely Planet guidebook) and a local from Bombay (close friend of a co-worker) to help show me the way.

Rather than bore you with the many details of my trip, below I am going to list the things I liked most about Bombay during the two full days that I had to enjoy it.

Very Inexpensive:

The Bombay Burger
This street food only cost me about $0.15 US. It's made with breaded and fried potato slices on a sweet roll with spicy sauce.
And it's so good that Pramit was asked to bring one back on the plane for a friend, who gladly ate it cold (and I'm guessing soggy).

Shopping in Fort/Colaba Neighborhoods
You'll find very inexpensive scarves, necklaces, t-shirts, leather sandals and anything touristy. I did some bargaining, but at a certain point it doesn't feel worth it to make a fuss over what's only worth $1 to you, even if they are technically trying to rip you off by their standards.

Traditional Masala Chai Tea
I've had a lot of chai tea and none of it compares to what you get in Mumbai. The Tea Centre has a shop inside where you can stock up on various Indian teas (Kashmiri, Darjeeling, Cardamom and more) for 1/5 of the cost that you would pay in the US.

Masala Dosa (usually in South Indian restaurants)
The dosa is basically a crepe made with ground rice and lentils. The masala is a tasty potato, onion and curry mixture that goes inside the dosa. Masala + dosa = yum!

More Expensive (similar to prices in the US for quality items):

Salt Water Grill
A sandy, outdoor, waterfront restaurant and bar with great views of the Queen's Necklace (the curved lights along the coast). I was there for drinks and conversation, but I hear the food is excellent as well.

Sabyasachi
Sabyasachi is a really great clothing designer and not just by Indian standards. You won't find any sequins here! Do your research on stores and find a backup, the store I tried (Kimaya) was completely out of stock. The designer fashion prices are more palatable while you're in India, so it's worth the effort. Right now only one store in the US (Malgosia in LA) sells his stuff and it runs about $1000 for a dress.


Taj Hotel
If you don't mind spending over $250+/night on your hotel room then it's worth it to upgrade, even if it's not the Taj, there is a really big difference in the quality of a $125 room vs. a $250 room in Mumbai. The Taj is by all the tourist attractions (and is one itself) and also has a lot of its own great amenities such as a spa, pool, upscale shopping, restaurants, salon, gym and more. Book very early, I missed out on the nicer hotels because high season is also wedding season.

Olive
A laid back restaurant with tasty Italian and Spanish influenced food and beverage. The main draw seems to be the atmosphere, Bollywood stars and fashion designers (Nisheel spotted one while we were there) frequent the popular white-walled location.

So, as you can see, I found a lot of things to love about Bombay in a very short period of time. I'm sure there are 1,000 other great places to shop, eat and just generally enjoy. Now if only I could find the time.

Destination Reading: Shantaram (by the anything but boring Gregory David Roberts)

Photography by me (except the Sabyasachi runway show, which I did not attend).

Juice Fasting: Don't Eat It

I have just recently finished my juice fasting program at the Sivananda Ashram in Kerala, India. It's really amazing the difference that I have noticed in my mind (relaxed and focused) and my body (I lost 10 lbs). Juice fasting isn't as pure as the original water fasting, but it has the same benefits, while allowing you to have the energy to get out of bed and still enjoy life. Do a Google search for "juice fasting" and you will find 865,000 results. It's certainly not a new concept.

The program I participated in merges the practice of yoga asanas, ayurvedic massage, clysmatics (gravity colonics), flower essences and alternative medicine, such as Kinesiology and Parasite zapping. Surprisingly enough, I rarely felt hungry (although that didn't stop me from discussing the Godmother sandwich, In n Out, pizza, Indian food and Mexican food with my fasting mates).

Each day we drank quite a bit of juice and then for dinner we had a fresh vegetable broth. All of our fruits and vegetables were locally grown, in season and picked ripe, for optimum benefits. We also took Bentonite Clay (absorbs its weight in toxins) and Psyllium Husk (for bulk) 3 times a day.

Example Menu: Orange Juice for Breakfast, Pineapple-Lemon Juice for Brunch, Carrot-Tomato Juice for Lunch, Mixed Vegetable Broth with Lemon for Dinner, each meal is followed with herbal supplements.

The key to fasting is to get as far away from temptation as possible. The Ashram was a perfect retreat for avoiding temptation. They keep you busy with chanting, prayers, classes, workshops and waiting in line for the Internet. There was a feast on Christmas day, however, it was vegetarian, so I don't feel like I missed too much.

Running the fasting program is Parameshwara (aka Frank) and Susannah, his assistant from Quebec. They are very nice people who have been involved with fasting for many years. Parameshwara is 76 years old and seems to be in great health. Susannah is a gorgeous older woman who reminds me of Jane Goodall. If only we could all age so well. Five times a day, before each juice, we would sing (Om Namah Sivaya) and say a prayer (thanking nature for our juice).

The last four days of the program are for breaking the fast, which means you start to eat whole foods, like fruit and vegetables. This is when the program seems the hardest because you feel like you can start eating anything and indulge. However, the stomach has shrunk and you will get sick if you overdo it. I feel extremely full every time I eat now!

Suggestions when fasting: Bring a great book to read (for distraction), relax, relax, relax (stress makes you hungry), make sure you get massages as a reward for your sacrifice

Photography by me.

Sivananda Ashram: Just Like Home

My first five or six days staying in the Sivananda Ashram (outside of Trivandrum, India) were a bit rough. I had a lot of trouble acclimating myself to the new environment and way of life and found myself withdrawing. The chanting, prayers, yoga sessions and juicing times are all scheduled. There were a lot of bugs. I wasn't a big fan of my room (request the Kailash building if you go). And I was in the fasting program, making it even tougher.

However, once I got used to the routine and learned how to relax a bit I came to realize it's a lot like going home. At home there usually aren't too many really exciting things going on, but that is the beauty of it. At home there are sometimes struggles over use of the bathroom and the Internet. At home you decorate for the holidays and have the occasional visit from Santa. At home you eat together in the evening, and at home there is always someone there for you when you need them. The same holds true for the Sivananda Ashram in Kerala.

I have met so many wonderful people at the Ashram from countries all over the world, including Switzerland, Japan, Ireland, England, India, Canada and China. I have also had the chance to immerse myself in the Hindu religious practices, which are incredibly beautiful. One of the best things about the Ashram is that they are open to people of all religions and races, and it's probably the only place I've ever been to where I didn't feel judged by a single person.

There are Pujas (prayers) performed regularly in different places. One night we hiked up the mountain and witnessed the local villagers Puja at a sacred location. The sunset was incredible and the candle lit ceremony was very intriguing. However, watching the local children's interactions was my favorite part. When you are in a small town they love to stare at foreigners because they are so rarely seen, and when they smile and wave at you with their shy innocence it makes you want to take them home.

On Christmas we had the weekly talent show, where visitors can do whatever they like on stage. A large group of people chose to perform "Silent Night" in nine different languages, including Spanish, French, Dutch, English, Japanese and one of the seventy native languages of Ethiopia. After each was sung individually the entire audience joined in and we all sang in our native languages at the same time. Perhaps it sounds cheesy, but I found it quite moving.

Should you choose to visit an Ashram, wherever it may be located, be prepared for rooms with minimal accommodations and people with very big hearts.

Suggested Chant: Om Namah Narayanaya (said to promote world peace)

Ashram Pickup Line: You Have Great Energy (haha)

Photography by me.

Singapore: Destination Airport

Yesterday I had an eight hour layover in the green city of Singapore. The city/country has been trying to attract more visitors and loosen it's rules, a bit. When you leave the airport terminal and go to the tourist booth you will receive a free bus pass for the day, a free shower at the spa inside the airport and other discounts. There are numerous free high-speed internet kiosks inside coffee shops and at terminal intersections.

Not to mention the Oasis at gate E8, which supplies numerous large plasma screen TVs to view every popular cable channel. There are chairs that lie flat for sleeping and massage chairs that lean back as well. Did I mention this is all free? When wandering around the "E" gates there are also numerous foot massaging machines, newspapers and beautiful plants. On site at the airport is a golf course, botanical gardens, a hotel you can rent in six hour increments and a rooftop pool (see above) complete with tiki bar (it's 90 degrees year round).

Changi Airport Awards and Accolades

If you have time to leave the airport (5 hour layover or more) then I suggest visiting Raffles to do the obligatory tourist thing. Enjoy a Singapore Sling at the bar that invented it inside. If you speak to the greeter outside he may be nice enough to show you the pictures he has with hotel guests Bill Clinton, Michael Jackson and Diana Ross.

Photography by me.

India: Close to Home

If you've always wanted to go to India, but hesitate when you think about the day and a half of travel required to get there, then please, read on. Take a yoga class taught by Vytas Baskauskas, where you will get a good workout and possibly learn a few things about the ancient spiritual practice.

Another option is to visit the Self-Realization Meditation Gardens in Encinitas (25 miles North of San Diego). Established in 1937 the Self-Realization Temple has an amazing, immaculate garden complete with an impressive koi pond. To top it off, it overlooks the Pacific Ocean (Swami's famous surf spot) from its home on the cliff. Entrance is free, although the hours open to the public are limited. Don't forget to visit the gift shop a block away for unique gifts.

Vytas' Class Schedule:
Power Yoga (Santa Monica)
Tu-Th 4:30 - 6:00PM
Sa 1:00 - 2:30PM
Su 2:15 - 3:45PM

Around the World: Quick as a Google Search

I use Google Analytics to track the visits to my travel blog. Recently I noticed that there are quite a few visitors from all over the country and around the world. The speed of the Internet has become commonplace. But, I still think it's amazing how easily we can share with our friends and family who live far away now that we have it. Special thanks to my friends in Belfast, Bombay and Basel who make me look more worldly than I really am.

Updated 12/10/06 with new map.

Florida Everglades: See you Later Alligator

I spent New Year's in Miami last year and paid a visit to Everglades National Park. December is the best month to visit because the weather is agreeable. The drive is about an hour and a half if you take the Tamiami Trail. The path inside the park is 15 miles long, so most people choose to take the tram. I suggest doing it right and renting a bicycle ($15/hour).

The first encounter with the alligators is scary. However, after seeing a few of them you will realize they are mostly harmless. Keep a tall stature and the alligators will be afraid of you. And, by all means, do not attempt to pet the alligators!

The trip highlight was the baby alligator I noticed along the trail. He was tiny, vulnerable and incredibly cute.

Another highlight was the airboat ride. Airboats are very different than other boats. It feels really strange to glide over the tall saw grass. The downside to airboat rides is the extremely touristy nature. I have a very patriotic shots of an alligator sleeping under an American flag by a totem pole (see above). I couldn't see anything chaining the gators to the pole, so I began to wonder if they were stuffed.

Perhaps the most important reason to visit the Everglades is to learn about its ecosystem. Although the park has legal boundaries, it is still greatly affected by the surrounding neighborhoods and businesses. Visiting is a great reminder of how fragile our planet is and that we need to take action to promote a more sustainable lifestyle.

Suggested Destination Reading: Tourist Season, Sick Puppy or Skinny Dip (Carl Hiaasen, Miami Herald Staff Writer)

Photography by me and Paul Johnson.

India: Snakes off the Plane?

I recently heard that approximately 50,000 people die each year in India due to snake bites. I will be staying at an Ashram across from a nature preserve. Wish me luck!

Suggested Puzzle: Snakes on a Sudoku